The Devil's Cauldron and the Amazon Rainforest

 We awoke to a stunningly clear morning, which only added to the allure of this remarkable hotel.  The dining room's attractiveness was not diminished by the sun's illumination, and the breakfast options were displayed across an array of antique stoves.  As we exited the hotel, we were met with a striking view of Mt. Chimborazo across the street from us. For those who love a fun fact, if you measure from the center of the earth, Mt. Chimborazo is the highest mountain on earth!  Although a dormant volcano, when we turned our backs to Chimborazo, across the valley we could see another, active, volcano that was sputtering ash clouds into the sky. Ecuador is part of the Pacific's "Ring of Fire" and currently has eight volcanoes in its territory.  On our drive to Rio Verde we were able to see several others due to the clear skies: Carihuairazo, Cotopaxi, and Antisana.  Roque pulled off at an old train depot and we were able to get off and take some photos of Chimborazo, as well as managing a group photo.

We reached Rio Verde (a small "town" outside of Baños) around 11:30am for a visit to El Pailon del Diablo (the Devil's Cauldron Waterfall).  Despite the drought, the waterfall's location on Rio Pastaza ensured we still enjoyed an awe-inspiring view of this 262-foot tall cascade.  Part of the reason for the name, so we were told, was that people often came here to commit suicide! Of the two viewing routes, we went on the suspension bridge route, which also is the route that keeps you driest. 

The "hike" was very easy (which I am allowed to say because I am the youngest person on the tour by at least 18 years), and only took about 10 minutes.  We were able to see spectacular views of the waterfall and saw double rainbows in the cascade's mist on multiple occasions.  Lots of photo opportunities; from standard to quirky, we saw many inventive poses. 

We returned to the bus and headed to a gas station with a rest area to enjoy our boxed lunches. Our next destination was the Quechua (also spelled 'Quichua' or 'Kichwa') village of Tiyuyacu (tee-you-yah-koo) to learn more about their community.  The women there showed us what they do to "survive" every day.  Their village is located on the Napo River, which feeds into the Amazon.  We were now in the rainforest region, and true to its name it began to pour as soon as we reached the Tiyuyacu hut for our presentation.  Since it was raining we didn't walk down to the river to watch them pan for gold, but they showed us a little bit of the process under the protection of the shelter.  Antonio explained to us the damage done, illegally, by those who bring heavy equipment to the riverbanks to dig up gold.  The equipment is very expensive for the average Ecuadorian, and the fines are steep if you get caught, but the opportunity (and likelihood) for a large payout lures in many people.  In addition to panning for gold, they showed us how they make a "chicha" drink from yucca/cassava, and also how they make pottery. In addition to the chicha, we were also taught some about Guayusa Tea. The guayusa tree is native to the Amazon rainforest, is commonly cultivated in Ecuador, and the Napo province is one the largest producers of the trees.  The Quechua people use guayusa tea in religious and spiritual ceremonies, and although it has many health properties it is high in caffeine and should be consumed in moderation.

The Spaniards came here looking for gold in 1541, and the local people who traveled with the Spaniards brought the process of making clay to this area.  The ladies use dried gourd pieces to shape the clay, and after they decorate it they'll bake it for about 2 hours before coating it in resin. I'm sure the grubs in the top left of the photo collage caught your attention, and no, I did not eat one! Chontacuro, a beetle larva or grub known for its unique taste and appearance, is a delicacy that’s nutritious, delicious, and well-loved by the locals.  The word 'chontacuro' comes from Kichwa, where 'chonta' means palm and 'curo' means larva, grub, or worm.  The ladies roasted them over the fire, and will use the fat drippings from the grubs as a kind of "Vick's Vapor Rub".  Blessedly, by the time we finished at the Tiyuyacu village the rain had subsided to barely a mist, and we gingerly made our way back through the somewhat muddy terrain to the waiting bus.

Our hotel for the next two days was located on the Napo River, and required a small motorized canoe transfer (the vehicle ferry isn't exactly insured, so they don't take the tour bus across the river).  It was only about 10-15 minutes long, but was very pleasant and made me extra appreciative that the rain had ceased. 

La Casa del Suizo (located in Ahuano) reminds you of a tropical jungle lodge. With the individual buildings linked by concrete pathways lined by palm trees and flowering shrubs, there were a variety of accommodation styles, but I was located in a duplex-style cabin.  My room had a lovely balcony, with a hammock, facing the river.  It had no windows, only screens to keep out the bugs, so the rushing of the river made it sound as though it were continually raining.  Other than no air conditioning, it was completely modern in all its other facilities and the ceiling fan at night kept enough air moving that I never thought twice about the lack of AC.  With time between our arrival and dinner, I decided to enjoy the beautiful pool, as did many of my tour mates.